Asakusa is one of the main attractions in Tokyo, for both Japanese and foreign tourists. Getting there is easy. Both the Asakusa subway line and the Ginza subway line stop there.
Asakusa is the name of the area that surrounds Senso-ji, a large temple complex with ancient roots. The area was also closely related to the bright lights of the entertainment world up until the post-war period. The lights were dimmed when the U.S. occupation forces imposed stricter prostitution laws and the more x-rated establishments had to close their doors. Never-the-less, today there is still plenty to see and do.
When you go through the famous main temple gate, called Kaminarimon, you will find a long row of small souvenir shops called Nakamise (literally, inside shops). They sell all the most popular and typical souvenirs, and some are quite vague. Of course, when you browse the stores, you will see a lot of maneki neko and that is only natural because Asakusa is the perfect environment for maneki neko, because it is a gathering place for buyers and sellers in hundreds year. The merchant culture here stretches from the beginning of the Edo period. In fact, if you go for a walk, away from Senso-ji, you will find a temple connected to the roots of maneki neko. This is Imado temple (jinja).
Return to the main gate, Kaminarimon, turn left and walk along a wide avenue. Within 10 minutes, you will arrive at a main intersection, just before the road continues and cross the Sumida River, Tokyo’s main road. Cross the intersection, turn left and you will enter the cool and shady Sumida Park, running along the river. Continue walking through the park for about 15-20 minutes. However, that may take you more time, because you might be tempted to stop and stare at the dramatic sight of Tokyo’s latest modern attraction across the river, Tokyo Sky Tree, currently the tallest tower in the world.
When you reach the end of the park, continue walking along Edo Avenue, and in about 5-10 minutes, you will arrive at a place where another road separates from Edo Boulevard. At this point, it’s best to stop someone and ask them where the Imado Shrine is. It’s close, but a bit difficult to explain clearly here. However, when you’re there, you’ll know right away that you’ve come to the maneki neko territory. Go through the tori gate and you’ll see a series of round wooden pills (ema). These are the wishes of the temple visitors.
Imado Temple is known for its matchmaking abilities, so many messages are related to finding suitable partners. When you get close to the temple, you will see two granite maneki sitting on a base at the foot of the temple’s stairs. At the top of the stairs are two very large maneki neko standing at the entrance to the temple. A little scary! Go back downstairs and to the right is a small sales office, where you can buy different ema and charms, all showing maneki neko images.
Next to the office is another small building containing a rich and colorful collection of maneki neko dolls, creating their own sacred space. There is also a small TV playing a DVD of a maneki neko dance, performed by some temple girls and a television character that I forgot my name. It’s weird and funny and, of course, very cute. In general, it’s a real hot spot for maneki neko. But why?
Imado Temple is located in an area called Imado, and for long days, many potters lived there, and they produced a type of pottery called Imado. Some of the earliest examples of maneki neko have been made here, so in a way, is the birthplace of maneki neko. I can only imagine a shrewd businessman in Asakusa returning to the Edo period when I heard one of the maneki neko legends, then went to Imado nearby and took a potter to create some pictures of a child. Cats with one leg are raised for sale in his store. The rest is history. From Imado and Asakusa, maneki neko has spread all over the world.
Unfortunately, there is no potter living in Imado, but returning to Senso-ji, in the Nakamise area, you will find a shop called Sukeroku. The store has been run by the same family for about 150 years, since the end of the Edo period, and they sell all kinds of small handcrafted ceramics. Some are copies of toys from the Edo period and some are small scenes of street life in the Edo period. In a space that allows no more than two customers at once, you can see hundreds of these small numbers lined up on the shelves. Of course, there are many maneki neko Manhsome variants that are funny, some I have never seen anywhere else.